Salton Sea: Apocalypse Now

The Salton Sea, 35 miles long and 15 miles wide with a surface of about 380 square miles is California's largest lake, located in the Colorado Desert, Southern California. At 227 feet below sea level, it is often called a "man-made accidental lake" because it was created when the Colorado River burst through poorly built irrigation systems of Yuma, Arizona due to heavy rainfall and the series of floods filled the Salton Basin in 1905. During the 1960s, the Salton Sea was famous as an oasis in the desert and becomes a posh resort filled with Hollywood celebrities. The lake, however, has no outlets. So, gradually constant variations in agricultural runoff had caused flooding of surrounding communities and the agricultural inflows which are rich with nutrients from fertilizer runoff and pesticides keep the lake's saline level unusually high and have caused harmful algal blooms (1). Both residents and visitors have started to disappear from the lake. As a result, today, visitor numbers are in steady decline and it is 37 percent saltier than the Pacific Ocean and has frequent widespread algal booms especially during summer. There is smelly heaps of dead tilapia which is a prolific breeder and resilient to high salinity, imported from Africa during the 1970s and ghost towns on the shore scattered everywhere. "You can swim there, but you have to wash your body thoroughly after swimming," warned Virginia Forgea (63), one of the few longtime residents of the Salton Sea's Bombay Beach.

In fact, the Salton Sea's almost apocalyptic vision (2) contradicts the fact that the lake is becoming increasingly important for migratory birds along the Pacific Flyway because over 92% of the wetlands in California have disappeared. Over 400 species, nearly half of all North American bird species, have been recorded in the area. It is both tragic and ironic that one man's nightmare becomes another species' paradise.

December 2009

(1) Since water conservation and transfer agreements between San Diego and the Imperial Valley in October 2003 which provided an additional 277,700 acre-feet of water annually to the San Diego region from the Colorald River, the Sea has become saltier than ever. The lake's salinity is increasing by about 1 percent annually.

(2) From 1944-55, B-29s from the U.S Army’s Squadron, commanded by Lt.Col.Paul Tibbets made regular but highly secret bombing practices into the Salton Sea as well. On Aug.6, 1945, Tibbets and his crew in the Enola Gay, dropped the first Atomic Bomb over Hiroshima, Japan.

Salton Sea: Apocalypse Now - An abandoned building at dusk on the southeast shore of...

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An abandoned building at dusk on the southeast shore of the Salton Sea between Bombay Beach and Niland. Only pigeons that are flying high show some signs of life here. The Salton Sea's increasing salinity, algae, and bacteria levels have taken their toll on tourism and local communities as many of the Salton Sea's surrounding resorts are closed and communities are abandoned.

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Undeveloped land plot, North Shore.

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The ruins of a former playground, North Shore.

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The ruins of a residential community, Bombay Beach, east of the Salton Sea.

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Undeveloped land plot for sale at North Shore.

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A large flock of American White Pelicans, North Shore. As many as 80 percent of the North American population of American white pelicans may use the Salton Sea in some years. North Shore is the home of the Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge, one of California's greatest birdwatching areas.

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The Orocopia Mountains are reflected on the small farm reservoir, north of the Salton Sea. Agribusiness is a billion-dollar economy in the Salton Sea area and the Imperial Valley, south of the Salton Sea.

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The ruins of a residential community, Bombay Beach, east of the Salton Sea.

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Stranded dried carcasses of tilapia fill the shore of Johnson's Landing, west of the Salton Sea.

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Defunct Bombay Beach Campground.

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Burnt palm trees at Salton Sea Beach, west of the Salton Sea.

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Dried carcasses of tilapia on the shore of Salt Creek Beach, east of the Salton Sea.

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A fresh carcass of American White Pelican, North Shore. In 1996, Avian botulism caused deaths of more than 10,000 pelicans and it became a nationwide news.

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Discarded address book in an abandoned house, Bombay Beach.

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The ruins of a residential community, Bombay Beach.

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A classic dune buggy with Santa Claus impersonator makes an exit out of nearly abandoned Salton Sea Beach Marina. The Salton Sea's increasing salinity, algae, and bacteria levels have taken their toll on tourism and local communities as many of the Salton Sea's surrounding resorts are closed and communities are abandoned.

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Installation art in Church of Broken Toys at Slab City, Niland. Slab City is the abandoned WWII military base camp, transformed into uncontrolled and decommissioned commune.

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An abandoned trailor at Salton Sea Beach, west of the Salton Sea.

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An abandoned house, Bombay Beach.

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An abandoned house, near Niland.

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An abandoned signboard, near the Salton Sea's Headquarters Campground.

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A dead tree casts its own ominous shadow on an abandoned house near Niland.

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Dead Oak Tree at dusk, Sonny Bono Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge, established as a national refuge in 1930 by a Presidential Proclamation. In 1998, it was renamed after Congressman Sonny Bono who played a major role in trying to save the Salton Sea's environment.

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Broken screen door of an abandoned house, Bombay Beach.

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Undeveloped land at dusk on the southeast shore of the Salton Sea between Bombay Beach and Niland.

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Jim,76, and Virginia Forgea,63, have lived in Bombay Beach since 1998. They don't own a car, but their son helps them out. Jim is a native American. "You can swim there, but you have to wash your body thoroughly after swimming," warned Virginia Forgea.

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An abandoned signboard, near Johnson's Landing, west of the Salton Sea.

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People hanging around the Post Office are reflected on the window of Bobby D's Pizza Plus in Niland.

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Almendo Ballesteros, owner of Ballesteros Mexican Restaurant, plays billiards with Rudy Zarate, employee of the restaurant at his own Ballesteros' restaurant with closing time approaching which is 8 o'clock p.m.

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Downtown Niland at night. Some of the stores were burned to the ground and the cause is under investigation.

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Picture of Emiliano Zapata hanging on the wall of Ballesteros Mexican Restaurant in Niland stares at customers at breakfast.

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James Lane, 71, from Arizona, one of "Snowbirds" who use Slab City's camp site and stay there during the winter months. Slab City is the abandoned WWII military base camp, transformed into uncontrolled and decommissioned commune.

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Salvation Mountain in Slab City, Niland, 2 miles southeast of the Salton Sea with Leonard Knight's dog. It is an epic colorful art installation which conveys the message that "God Loves Everyone." The mountain has become a kind of pilgrimage site. As many as 50 people a day visit this site. In 2002, Salvation Mountain was placed under protection when California Senator Barbara Boxer entered it into the Congressional Record as a national treasure.

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Leonard Knight,79, self-claimed messenger from God and proprietor of Salvation Mountain in Slab City, Niland, 2 miles southeast of the Salton Sea. It is an epic colorful art installation which conveys the message that "God Loves Everyone." Leonard Knight gives a quick tour to visitors as many as 50 people a day. He has been living in the desert without gas, electricity and running water since 1984. In 2002, Salvation Mountain was placed under protection when California Senator Barbara Boxer entered it into the Congressional Record as a national treasure.

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Salvation Mountain in Slab City, Niland, 2 miles southeast of the Salton Sea. It is an epic colorful art installation which conveys the message that "God Loves Everyone." The mountain has become a kind of pilgrimage site. As many as 50 people a day visit this site. In 2002, Salvation Mountain was placed under protection when California Senator Barbara Boxer entered it into the Congressional Record as a national treasure

Kazuhiro Yokozeki photography

Kazuhiro Yokozeki Photography